Can’t seem to get something to synth right? Curious about what lens is best? Ask your fellow Photosynthers here.
I'm trying to get this model to synth and the only luck I'm having is with the back of the saucer section. Could someone please advise me on what I'm doing wrong? These are the only photos available of the studio model before it was sold....so I can't go take anymore. I've tried many times with taking the photos of just particular sections and am having no luck. Thanks for any advice.
Even what is working looks distorted on the point cloud.....
I've tried doing just the upper saucer section.....i even spent a couple hours trying to match all the colors on the photos in photoshop...
So... who currently owns the model? Is there any chance that we could get them interested in Photosynth?
I'm not sure exactly what you mean as far as matching the colours, but I wouldn't worry about color balance|hue|tint. What is going to do Photosynth good is having good exposure of the visual patterns on the hull of the ship and where the distance from the ship varies by more than a factor of two between shots, using cropping of the wide angle to create an imposter intermediate scale shot.
An unhappy truth about the way that Photosynth currently does things is that (although it uploads the full resolution photos for viewing) it only uses a 1.5 megapixel version of any photo that you give it to look for details to match. From this perspective, you can understand why having an intermediate scale between the close-up and the far-shot becomes critical - the hull's details in the wide shots will be miniscule in the 1.5 MP version of their photo.
I (and others) have done some experimenting with using a lower resolution crop like a cookie cutter on the original images, so that each piece of original imagery is already the same size or a little smaller than what the synther downscales images to, so the synther ends up looking at original pixels at their original scale (essentially leaving no detail left unexamined - JPEG recompression aside).
Part of the complication is that the synther will use the focal length and other EXIF metadata to try to determine the camera's field of view, compensate for radial distortion, etc. and if this metadata is left attached to the crops, it will send Photosynth in the wrong direction (thinking that the center of each crop is where the center of the lens was pointed).
What I would love to do is have two copies of the original images - one that you leave completely unedited, and the other that you radially undistort, strip of metadata, and tile in approximately 1MP chunks.
I don't know how familiar you are with the Photosynth Photography Guide, but it has fairly clear principles in there about how many degrees you can move around an object and still expect good matches. It's available here, if you're interested: http://photosynth.net/help.aspx#photosynthhelp
In some cases, the angles that any given part of the model is seen from may simply be too different for Photosynth to be able to make the jump from one image to the next, regardless of whether we get the scale to be within matching range.
Something else to try might be to start a seed at PhotoCity ( http://photocitygame.com ) and if it is approved, get other Trekkies to submit all the highest resolution stills that they can pull of the ship from episodes of the show and see whether you can get the intermediary angles that you need that way.
As far as using stills from the show, to get from one shot of the model to the next, it should work for Photosynth as well.
I added you to my live messenger.....i would like to chat with you when you are online about this. Thanks for all the advice.
Wow I happen to be a Trekky too. I appreciate your attempt hotrod.